Nothing here happens quickly

Casa Vagar occupies three floors of an 1870s townhouse on Rua das Flores. The lift is slow, the corridors are narrow, and the whole building smells faintly of eucalyptus and old plaster. None of that is an accident.

We take four guests at a time. There is no music in the treatment rooms, no upsell at the end, and no clock where you can see it. You arrive an hour before your treatment, you sit in the courtyard, and you leave when you are ready.

A massage is ninety minutes. A visit is half a day. We priced the second one.

How a visit is shaped

  1. Arrive, change, and spend an unhurried hour in the water rooms.
  2. Meet your therapist, who will ask more questions than you expect.
  3. Your treatment, then tea in the courtyard for as long as you like.

Since 2016

The house

Ana and Rui bought the building as a shell and spent two years putting it back together with the original azulejo intact. The ground floor holds the water rooms — a cold plunge, a steam room lined in Estremoz marble, and a shallow warm pool that seats six. The two floors above are treatment rooms, one per floor per guest, each with a window onto the street or the courtyard.

Sunlit tiled courtyard with a single stone bench

Deep tissue, 90 minutes — €120

Slow, firm and specific. Your therapist works one or two areas properly rather than covering the whole body lightly. Most people book this for a shoulder or a lower back that has been complaining for months.

Treatment table beside a tall shuttered window

Hydrotherapy circuit, 2 hours — €65

Steam, plunge, warm pool, repeat, with a rest between each. Bring nothing; robes, slippers and towels are set out for you. Best booked on a weekday morning when the house is at its quietest.

Marble-lined steam room with a low bench

The full day — €240

The circuit, a 90-minute treatment, lunch in the courtyard, and the afternoon to yourself. Four of these are available each day and they go about six weeks ahead.

Small lunch table laid under a fig tree

Ten years, slowly

  1. 2016

    A shell on Rua das Flores

    Ana and Rui buy a building with no roof and very good bones.

  2. 2018

    The water rooms open

    Hydrotherapy only, three days a week, entirely by word of mouth.

  3. 2021

    Four treatment rooms

    The upper floors are finished and the first therapists join.

  4. 2024

    The full day

    Lunch service starts in the courtyard and the day package is born.

  5. 2026

    Still four guests at a time

    We have had ten years of chances to grow and have politely declined.

From the journal

Why we took the music out
The house18 May 2026

Why we took the music out

Ninety minutes of whale song is a decision made for you. Silence is not.

Cold plunge, honestly
Water2 April 2026

Cold plunge, honestly

What the research actually supports, and what it very much does not.

A short defence of the nap
Slowness11 February 2026

A short defence of the nap

The courtyard bench exists for exactly one purpose and you should use it.

Before you come

What should I bring?
Yourself. Robes, slippers, towels and toiletries are laid out. Leave jewellery at home — there is a locker, but the fewer things to think about, the better.
Can I book for two people?
Yes, and you can share the water rooms, but treatments are one guest per room. Couples’ rooms would mean a bigger building and a louder one.
Is there parking?
No, and there is no realistic prospect of any. The 28 tram stops two streets up and there is a car park on Rua do Alecrim, six minutes on foot.
What if I need to cancel?
Forty-eight hours and we refund in full. Inside that we will move you if we can fill the slot, which on a weekday we usually can.

Four visits a day, and they go about six weeks ahead

Tell us the date you want. We hold it for 24 hours while you decide what to book into it.

Reserve a day

The quiet letter

One email a month: what is open, what has changed, and the occasional cancellation slot before it goes public.

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Visiting

Address
Rua das Flores 41, 1200-194 Lisboa, Portugal
Phone
+351 21 000 0000
Email
bomdia@casavagar.pt
Hours
Wed–Sun 10:00–20:00 · closed Mon & Tue