The fire
There is no gas in the kitchen. Everything is cooked over a bed of Dutch oak and old wine barrels, which means the menu is written around what fire is good at: whole fish, brassicas, aged birds, and butter.
The cellar
Six hundred bins, weighted heavily towards Loire and Mosel growers who farm without herbicide. Our sommelier, Joost, pours a pairing at €85 and a non-alcoholic pairing of ferments and infusions at €55.
The room
Seventeen seats around one oak table, milled from a single tree felled in the Amsterdamse Bos. You will be sitting next to strangers. Most people leave having swapped numbers.